VN (94+)
From: 2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty? (Jan 2026)
The 2020 Barolo Riserva Perno is sensual and enveloping in the glass. This is a shockingly closed wine in a vintage in which so many wines are more accessible. Macerated red cherry, plum, blood orange, spice, new leather and cedar all meld together in the glass. Huge tannins and brisk acids suggest a long life ahead for those who can wait. There's a ton of substance here, that's for sure. 2030 - 2050
- By Antonio Galloni, January 2026
A visit to this small estate in Monforte's Perno district is always interesting. Elio Sandri is certainly not one to shy away from expressing opinions. His 2020 Barolos, the current releases, offer an intriguing mix of structure and just a touch more accessibility than is the norm. I doubt too many fans of these Barolos will complain about the wines being a bit more available in the early going than most vintages. Sandri gave his 2020s four weeks on the skins with no submerged cap maceration. Malolactic fermentations took place on their own schedule. Readers who love firm, classically built Barolos will adore these wines. These are the equivalent of black-and-white photos in a world where so much is in color and enhanced in some way.
