VN (94+)
From: 2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty? (Jan 2026)
The 2020 Barolo Riserva Perno Vigna Disa is another potent, driving wine from Elio Sandri. Linear and focused in the glass, the 2020 is all tension. Black cherry, graphite, dried herbs, menthol, chocolate and rose petal open, but only with great reluctance. In this tasting, the 2020 is hard as nails. The Riserva emerges from the estate's oldest vines in blocks with full southern exposure. It's an ethereal, beguiling wine that embodies all of the mystery and dynamic complexity that makes great Barolo so fascinating.
- By Antonio Galloni, January 2026
A visit to this small estate in Monforte's Perno district is always interesting. Elio Sandri is certainly not one to shy away from expressing opinions. His 2020 Barolos, the current releases, offer an intriguing mix of structure and just a touch more accessibility than is the norm. I doubt too many fans of these Barolos will complain about the wines being a bit more available in the early going than most vintages. Sandri gave his 2020s four weeks on the skins with no submerged cap maceration. Malolactic fermentations took place on their own schedule. Readers who love firm, classically built Barolos will adore these wines. These are the equivalent of black-and-white photos in a world where so much is in color and enhanced in some way.
